True collaboration in fashion often transcends the boundaries of medium and artistry, becoming something more than the sum of its parts. Joy Teiken, the creative force behind Joynoelle, and AMI, a photographer whose work speaks volumes in every frame, are an example of such a partnership. Together, they weave an unspoken narrative where fabric and lens work in harmony, creating a visual dialogue that is both compelling and understated. Teiken’s latest collection is a study in texture and form, born from a deep connection to the human body and its natural elements. “These recent pieces are the beginning of a larger collection where the focus is on the imagery and textures of the human body,” Teiken explains. “Microscopic bone detail, muscle tissue, vein lines, and colors. This exploration is deeply personal, though it may not be seen by others since I’m not being literal—it’s my analysis.” Teiken’s designs are not ones to follow trends. They’re timeless, immune to the fleeting nature of fashion’s fast-paced cycles. Instead, she focuses on textures and materials that tell their own story, garments that breathe life into the wearer. The green gown, for example, is made from cream and green striped silk taffeta, with stitch-pleating that creates a three-dimensional effect—a visual journey within the fabric itself. The burgundy gown, made of silk decorator fabric, features organic shapes that flow like brushstrokes, sewn onto a black organza slip. It’s these kinds of pieces, meticulously crafted and deliberate in their creation, that define Teiken’s work. “I’m a very tactile person and manipulating fabric is an important aspect of my process,” says Teiken. “For me, it’s about what makes sense visually and in my head. I’m open to the organic process of letting things take shape, stepping away, and thinking critically. This is where I’m happiest.” Her relationship with fabric is personal, bordering on intimate. It’s a dialogue between her hands and the material, a conversation that results in pieces that feel not only wearable but imbued with a sense of emotion and depth. In walks AMI, the photographer tasked with capturing this depth through her lens. Known for her ability to balance light, texture, and movement, AMI’s style is a natural complement to Teiken’s tactile approach. For this collaboration, the challenge was to bring Teiken’s intricate designs to life without overpowering them. “This shoot was all about balancing the duality of Joy’s designs—one look was airy, delicate, and soft, while the other was bold and dark,” AMI explains. “I wanted to showcase that complexity without being overly stylized. My work is about finding that harmony between the designer’s vision and my perspective.” One of the most striking elements of this collaboration is the seamless interaction between the garments and the models. The clothing feels like an extension of the body, fluid and organic, which was no accident. “We wanted the models to feel as if the garments were part of them, not something separate,” AMI says. “It was important that the connection between the body and the fabric was palpable.” AMI’s ability to capture this synergy is part of what makes her work so impactful—the way she plays with light and shadow, bringing out the texture of each garment without losing its softness. There’s a dreamlike quality to the images AMI creates—models in motion, yet somehow suspended in time. “Fashion photography is often about capturing movement in stillness,” AMI reflects. “I’m always thinking about how to use light and texture to add a sense of motion to still images, and Joy’s pieces lend themselves beautifully to that. The richness of the fabrics, the intricacy of the textures—they almost ask for that kind of treatment.” In one of the standout images, a model wears a black gown made from fringe, sewn vertically over a netted silhouette. AMI plays with light here in a way that makes the fringe shimmer, giving the gown an almost hypnotic quality, as if it’s swaying in a breeze you can’t see. In another, the cream dress with leather bow detail, constructed from shredded cotton, feels soft yet structured, with AMI using delicate lighting to emphasize the contrast between the material’s softness and the sharpness of its design. This collaboration is more than just a fashion shoot—it’s a dialogue between two artists whose work elevates each other’s. For Teiken, seeing her designs through AMI’s lens was revelatory. “It’s always fascinating to see how someone else interprets your work,” Teiken notes. “AMI captured the essence of what I was trying to convey, but she also brought her own layer of meaning to it, which I loved.” For AMI, working with a designer as meticulous and thoughtful as Teiken pushed her creatively. “There’s always this tension between staying true to the designer’s vision and bringing your own perspective as a photographer,” AMI says. “But that’s where the magic happens. In that push and pull, you create something that’s truly collaborative.” Together, Joy Teiken and AMI remind us that fashion is more than just clothing—it’s an experience, an emotion, a story. Their work transcends the transactional nature of fashion photography, moving into the realm of art, where fabric and image merge into a seamless whole. The garments are not just worn; they are lived in, felt, and understood, thanks to the unspoken synergy between a designer and a photographer who, together, are quietly redefining how we see fashion.
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December 2024
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